Help! I'm in clutch hell!!

[Xusia]

So the clutch basket, clutch plate, and outermost friction plate were damaged in my crash. I've taken most of it apart, but in looking at the diagrams and the service manual, I think it's more of a job than I have the skill to do. I don't even know what parts need to be replaced (beyond the obvious damaged ones) and which are OK to reuse. And what the heck is molybdenum? :bash:

If someone with experience can help me, that would be great. Otherwise I have to take to the shop... :(

[roadrunner]

you can do this!!! cross reference your clutch with places that have microfiche and your manual to figure out what goes where and what exactly you need. while youre in there why dont you just replace the whole thing that way you are sure of the thing. its not that much more expensive to get the few extra plate(friction or steel) that you need plus theyre be no question if an issue comes up.. molybdenum is a specific type of grease..
if you alreat have the thing apart youre more than half way there... you can do it!!!!

[Xusia]

I can find/identify most the parts no problem (there are apparently several different ones used in some cases and the only way to tell them apart is some small identifying mark I can't see). The issue is getting the hub nut off, ensuring I get the RIGHT parts, and getting everything back together properly. Speakign of which, the service manual listed all kinds of torque settings and patterns and what not. Based on that I am fearful there is a high likelihood of ME screwing something up.

[YOMAMAR6]

you can do it!

[Rex Raider]

you can do it :thumbup:
just have plates in hand before you start. note things that look weird or new to you and have manual at the reddy.
if you need a tourqe wrench or other tools let us know.
as a last resort we can all come over and offer our 2 cents.
good luck and keep us apprised

[lil' mikey]

here's something that might help. This is an 07 clutch and basket diagram. might help might not.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/12/Type/Street/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/48/Year/2007/ModelID/3155/Model/Ninja_ZX-10R/GroupID/82829/Group/Clutch

[roadrunner]

theres a tool that holds the thing so that you can get that nut off.. piece of cake!!!

[ZRX_PAUL]

I just did my Clutch, and the nut comes right off with a good Impact Gun. There is usually no need to even hold the clutch basket with one of the special tools.
What kind of time frame are you trying to finish the job? I am going on vacation to Vegas on the 3rd.

[roadrunner]

zrx paul to the rescue again!!

[2k2 banshee]

Brian you can put it in my shop and we can work on it here. I have all the tools to do it. I got youre paint done today so if you need the help I am free now.:ride:



I can find/identify most the parts no problem (there are apparently several different ones used in some cases and the only way to tell them apart is some small identifying mark I can't see). The issue is getting the hub nut off, ensuring I get the RIGHT parts, and getting everything back together properly. Speakign of which, the service manual listed all kinds of torque settings and patterns and what not. Based on that I am fearful there is a high likelihood of ME screwing something up.

[dansrc51]

sorry I'm late to the party Brian. these guys are all on the money. You don't have to have the special tool to hold the assembley in place, but it makes it easier. You will more then likely need an impact gun to get the center nut off. if you don't know, an impact gun is a numatic (air powered) driven wrench like what they use in tire shops to put lug nuts on. it vibrates to help loosen or torque whatever it is driving. as for torque specs, don't worry, the manual will tell you when and what to torque. I have a torque wrench that you are welcome to borrow. and the grease is as road runner said, a special grease made to use in new engine parts. this ensures lubrication on start up, and easily dissapates into your engine after several hundred miles. I would recommend an oil change probably after 200 or so miles once you have it all buttoned up. let us know how it's coming.

[ZRX_PAUL]

2K2Banshee to the rescue!!!!!!!!! You absolutely rock Lee! That paint is Bada$$.(Can you say that on the Forum, oops)

[2k2 banshee]

Lol. thanks Paul

[ZRX_PAUL]

I just took a closer look at the microfiche at RonAyers. The identifying mark an the Clutch Basket is on the back side of the basket. It appears that you cannot see which specific basket assy (A-D) type that it is until the basket is removed.
That is kinda bogus, as it seems to force you to remove the basket before the correct parts can even be ordered, and the have everything in a state of disassembly until the parts arrive. Even though RonAyers is faster than most to
get factory parts to you, I have waited 3-4 weeks to have parts arrive recently.
It would seem that the best course of action would be to quickly get the basket
removed from the bike, identify the basket as "A, B, C, or D "., and then get the parts ordered asap. Hopefully they might have clutch parts in stock, as they are
a fairly common group of parts to be ordered.:2cents:

[Xusia]

I was able to read the number on the basket without getting it off and am fairly sure I have all the right parts on order. I also bought an impact wrench yesterday, but the nut still wouldn't budge. I took the torque wrench to it and broke the 2x4. ARGHHH! Any ideas? I'm about to take it to a shop...

[dansrc51]

you don't want to use a torque wrench for that type of application. I would try a breaker bar and a cheater pipe. outside of that, I'm saying get to a shop that can zip if off in about 10 seconds.

[roadrunner]

I was able to read the number on the basket without getting it off and am fairly sure I have all the right parts on order. I also bought an impact wrench yesterday, but the nut still wouldn't budge. I took the torque wrench to it and broke the 2x4. ARGHHH! Any ideas? I'm about to take it to a shop...
this is where theyll use that holder type tool.

[2k2 banshee]

well how did the tools work Brian ?

[Xusia]

That did it - finally got it off!! I think I'm gonna have a party now. :)

[roadrunner]

yay!!!

[dansrc51]

so I'm curious now, what did you use? :thinking:

[Xusia]

I borrowed Lee's impact wrench. Mine is apparently a POS and is being returned today.

[ZRX_PAUL]

Damn , Lee. I am going to buy you a Superhero outfit or something! You Rock!:bow:

[Rex Raider]

YAAAAAaaaaaa :thumbup:

seems like when ever i go into the engine of a bike theres always one :yell: nut or bolt that gets cuss at a little more then the ohters, and you think this is tough wait till ya blow a gear and then we go all the way to the heart of the beast. :rad: :rad: :rad:

you the man lee :clapping:

[2k2 banshee]

thanks! just trying to help a friend out.

[ZRX_PAUL]

I borrowed Lee's impact wrench. Mine is apparently a POS and is being returned today.
So Brian, How is the ZX10 coming along? Is she just about all back together? I can't wait to see it!

[lil' mikey]

I borrowed Lee's impact wrench. Mine is apparently a POS and is being returned today.
Thats one of the things that you pay for what you get. A good impact wrench with torgue will cost ya. Those cheap ones won't pull a loose nut off. :2cents:

[MikeG]

I just stick a rag in the gears and use a socket with a BIG cheater pipe to get the clutch hub nut off.

[YOMAMAR6]

tools r not cheap. but u get what u pay for.

[rickster]

Be sure to check your crankshaft and your trans. input shaft for runout. It may have been bent by the impact if the trans. was hit hard enough to damage clutch components. I almost bought a '92 GSXR once that was totalled; mostly cosmetic with engine case damage. Some little voice in my head said to put a dial indicator on the crank- it had almost .050" radial runout- pretty badly bent. Needless to say I passed on the bike.

[dansrc51]

tools r not cheap. but u get what u pay for.
+1000 on that.

[Xusia]

It's almost done. If I get enough time it might see some action this weekend!! :D