which way will my speedo read???

[YOMAMAR6]

i have to get a new chain so I'm planing to change my sprockets 1 down in front and 2-3 up in rear at the same time.
my speedo reads faster than I'm really going now exp. if it says 55mph I'm doing 50mph.
which way will my speedo read after i change sprockets???
will i be going faster or slow then what my speedo reading.

[code3ryder]

it will read much higher than your actual speed.

[Xusia]

Hey Edwin, why BOTH down in front and up in rear? I ask because those both accomplsih the same thing: A reduction in gearing. Combined, that would come close to 15%, so instead of doing 50mph, you'd really be doing ~42 (and your speedo would be reading 55). Assuming your top speed was 165, it would be ~140 afterwards. That kind of re-gearing sounds like very aggressive.

If your goal is to make the bike more rideable, I'd recommend either -1 up front OR, +2, maybe +3 in the rear. The accomplish reductions in the neighborhood of 5% - 8%. Since you are getting a new chain & sprockets, I'd go up in the rear. Given you were thinking aggressively (or so it sounds), +3 would be my recommendation. 8% may not sound like a lot, but I think you'll be amazed at how much of a difference it will make.

If your goal is to reduce reciprocating mass, then I'd recommend -2 up front AND -2 in the rear, which is about a 7.5% reduction. NOTE: This can have an adverse affect on chain life.

[lil' mikey]

you might want to just go up 2 or 3 in the rear first. That way if you still want to go lower you can go down one in the front later. The counter shaft sprocket is a lot cheaper than a rear to replace. I'm saying this because I went down one in the front and up 3 in the rear on my 6. It is really low geared. Unless you are getting into stunting you may not be happy with it. 1st gear is almost useless and going down the freeway in 6th gear at around 8 grand at traffic speed. Just some pennies to think about....

[WindBurnt]

I have -1 in front and at 58mph im accually doing bout 54mph or so. And suppossiby my bike is governed at 186mph, but ive read 189mph before and didn't feal the fuel cut off. Im thinking i was running out of gear but the bike was going faster and RPMs where going up but it didn't wanna change to 190mph. Kinda baffled on that part. Maybe just buy front one and check it out, if u dont like u can always put stock back on and save pennies for the rear later and then if u want more you'll still have the -1 for the front to put on later. Or just buy a R1 ehehe j/k buddy.

[YOMAMAR6]

thanks all for info. Andy i'm thinking GSXR 750 next year best of both worlds.

i just want to have a little fun with my bike. i just want to be able to do a wheelie when i want it to. not trying to show off for others just for myself i got it up by accident a couple times. but then i try it nothing. i could just be scared $hitless and can't do it be cause i'm not giving enough gas when i'm trying. i also heard clutching it up is the way to do it on a r6 cause of the limited power. but i don't want to fry my clutch. i guess u got to pay to play. but i also want to still ride track days next year with out changing the sprockets. maybe i'll try ?????

[WindBurnt]

thanks all for info. Andy i'm thinking GSXR 750 next year best of both worlds.

i just want to have a little fun with my bike. i just want to be able to do a wheelie when i want it to. not trying to show off for others just for myself i got it up by accident a couple times. but then i try it nothing. i could just be scared $hitless and can't do it be cause i'm not giving enough gas when i'm trying. i also heard clutching it up is the way to do it on a r6 cause of the limited power. but i don't want to fry my clutch. i guess u got to pay to play. but i also want to still ride track days next year with out changing the sprockets. maybe i'll try ?????

1st, make up your mind what u wanna do. :smilewink 2nd let me drive it, ill let ya know if it can wheelie :rad: dont worry to much bout clutch, its not that expensive to replace plates and pads. Its when u brake the basket is when it gets expensive. I think i replaced my plates and pads for under 75$. but i did the work. Not hard at all either. I learned the lesson of mix matching brand names with steel plates to the pads. <<<< doesn't work, trust me. The guys that drag R1's the right way say they cant get more the 5 good pulls at the drags on the same clutch, and there slipping the crap out of it on launch. But thats kinda the way to launch, so u can't really get around it unless u get an oil line that runs from oil galley to the top of the clutch cover. (if interested i have a good site for u the check out on that sort of set-up). Parts are parts and yes they do cost money, but since your such a good guy ehehehe i can beat anybodies price here in town on yamaha parts and anyone on ebay with OEM parts brand new in a yami box to. Hit me up to test my connection. As for the wheelies. You have insurance and Aflac right? You'll get paid for crashing, and maybe a new bike.<<<<< just being optimistic. :smilewink Better gear up and expect to crash buddy, it happens to the best of them. As for more power, i think your bike should do what u want just fine with the right driver:laughing:. Just set that rump farther back toward the passenger seat.:lol: just flickin poo dude. lol


P.s LET ME TRY.

[WindBurnt]

oh, just grow some marbles and run with it. eheheheheh thats kinda how i started. Accually i started on a 94 FZR600r, so don't tell my yours can't do it.:ride:

[YOMAMAR6]

maybe i should just learn on what i got and just only get a new chain. oh Andy i need a prices on a stock 02 r6 chain a D.I.D x ring. preferred i think its a 525 or 530 i'll fine out.

[WindBurnt]

i pretty sure its a 530 chain. Call around and check prices first and then call me. If your serious, pm me your number so we can talk.

[YOMAMAR6]

pm sent

[tlrmike99]

Also, going down in the front wears the chain faster. I think do what Mikey said, go up 2-3 teeth in the rear, as you can always drop in the front later with the same chain. Also, change chain and sprockets together, worn out sprockets will kill your chain quicker and a worn out chain will eat your sprockets faster.... And call me some time.... looser!!!:twofinger :nutkick

[YOMAMAR6]

mike i'll give u a call tomorrow. maybe u can look at my sprocket

[dansrc51]

Also, going down in the front wears the chain faster. woah, I've never heard that before..... any ideas as to why?:thinking:


Also Edwin, nearly every modern sportbike has an error in speedometer reading. they are almost always optomistic usually in the neighborhood of 6% but they can run as high as 10% this is an exponential increase (gets greater with the higher speed) so at slow speed it is much closer to accurate. Here (http://www.xs4all.nl/%7Eator0437/gc/) is a link for those of you who don't have a speedo healer in your bikes yet. I highly recommend them as you will have a much greater chance at avoiding an uneeded ticket by trying to figure out your road speed while moving down the highway. Not to put anybody here down, but the chances of anybody's bike doing over 180 is pretty low. even with mods. inaccurate readouts have most people thinking they are blistering along at a fast pace ( which they are ) but if your riding a 600, and your bike can hit 155mph your doing extremely well, with a 1000 of any make or model, you'd be lucky to hit 175 corrected mph. Sport Rider even tested the new MV Agusta 312R, the worlds fastest production bike. they did it at the Honda proving grounds with perfect conditions and they couldn't break past 185, which again is fast, but not the 194 the bike promises. In thier calculations, it would require a major horse power boost to make up the remaining 8 mph deficit, think Hayabusa boost, which is govened to 189mph.
whoooh... sorry I got so long winded there :blah-blah:blah-blah

[YOMAMAR6]

dan thats a cool site

[Xusia]

woah, I've never heard that before..... any ideas as to why?:thinking:
Yes: Smaller sprockets have a smaller circumference, resulting in the stress of the driving force being applied to a smaller area of the chain. The smaller the area to which the froce is applied and therefore distributed, the greater the amount of stress each area recieves resulting in greater wear.

Edwin:
1. If you need to replace your chain and sprockets, I strongly encourage you to reduce your gearing; Don't go back to the stock sprocket sizes. The stock setup is almost always too high so new riders with less throttle control don't loop it when they give it too much. Go either +2 or +3 in the rear sprocket. As I said previously, based on what you have said, I'd go +3.

2. You have a 600, so you shouldn't even be thinking about a 525 or 530. Those are for bikes with far more horse power. A smaller chain pitch like 520 has less weight which results in less rotating mass. Reduction in rotation mass let the engine spin up faster, which makes your bike feel like it has more HP. A quality 520 chain is more than strong enough for your bike. Also, chain quality/build has more to with strength than pitch. My bikes puts 159 dynoed hp to the rear wheel and I run a DID ERV 3 520. So far it's lasted longer than the stock setup or the EK 525 I replaced it with (which was the strongest EK). Based on those results, it will be a long time before I use any chain other than a DID ERV 3 and I would not shy away from a 520 again like I did the first time.

[YOMAMAR6]

i am looking on ebay as i type but allthe 520 kits i found change both

check this one out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-99-02-R6-520-CONVERSION-CHAIN-SPROCKET-VORTEX_W0QQitemZ330161303655QQihZ014QQcategoryZ356 00QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

[Xusia]

That's a pretty good deal. You could always contact the seller and see if he would sell you a kit with 16/51 sprockets. Or you could say "fock it dude, let's go bowling," and try it as is.

I found almost the same thing on Cal-Sportbike: http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?cart_id=7960323.64210&pid=1728&count=1 They don't list an 02 R6 on the website, but that doesn't mean they don't have it or can't get it.

My personal choice is the DID ERV3 with AFAM/Driven sprockets: http://www.calsportbike.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?cart_id=7960323.64210&pid=1439&count=1. This particular kit is a -1/+2, so you may need to call to get the gearing you want. I know this is more than the other you were looking at, but it is in my opinion a higher quality kit and should last longer.

Also, I've dealt with Todd (the owner) many times and he is very willing to help out and do whatever he can. He's fairly knowledgable and may even have some suggestions for your bike. I think Cal-Sportbike gives discounts to members of certain forums (I've dealt with him through zx-10r.net), so you might join another forum just to get the discount.

Lastly, Cal-Sportbike sells the Speedo Healer to correct speedo error caused by the factory or gearing changes.

Call me if you want - I don't have any more meetings today.

[rickster]

Edwin, what the guys are saying is right on; first you have to figure out what you want the bike to do, and what's reasonable to expect from it. What I've done in the past is estimated a realistic top speed for the bike and geared for that speed at redline or just short of the rev limiter. My TL1000R came geared for a theoretical top speed of I think 194 (indulge me if I've posted about this before) but even one in Superbike tune probably wouldn't hit that, so I aimed for 175 @ 12,000 rpm. You can calculate your theoretical top speed if you know the bikes primary, top gear, and final drive ratios and the circumference of the rear tire. There will be variables, such as tach error and tire growth which will be hard or impossible to determine, hence the theoretical designation. My TL, after changing to -1 front and +2 rear would pull to 12,000 (redline) in top gear, which was calculated to be 174 mph, tach error and/or tire growth notwithstanding. This was just short of the rev limiter, which cut in at approx. 12,250 rpm. Stock it would only manage a calculated 166 mph, and I had to keep it 5th to get that! I was also able afterward to hoist the front end easily in 2nd with throttle only, me weighing at the time about 220 with all the gear on. I ran AFAM sprockets and a DID x-ring chain, all in 520, but they didn't last as long as the 530 chain. :blah-blah :blah-blah :blah-blah

[dansrc51]

Yes: Smaller sprockets have a smaller circumference, resulting in the stress of the driving force being applied to a smaller area of the chain. The smaller the area to which the froce is applied and therefore distributed, the greater the amount of stress each area recieves resulting in greater wear.



good explination :clapping: that actually makes a lot of sense.

[YOMAMAR6]

i hate being on a limited budget.

i need a sponsor for decent pace rider. j/k

[YOMAMAR6]

thanks brain and tlr mike for the help and

brain todd is an cool person to deal with from that site.

ok i know what im getting now. from cal-sportbike

520 convertion with D.I.D vm gold chain

rethal ultra lite front 16 tooth front

driver 50 tooth rear.

stock is 16/48

[Xusia]

I think you will be very happy with that combo!

[lil' mikey]

I think that would be a wise choice. If your looking to power a wheelie up on command like a liter bike give up now. Even with my gearing (earlier post) I still have to bounce it up or clutch it in second gear to get it up. 1st gear will bring it right up though.

[YOMAMAR6]

mike i have weight on my side to help it up u must of for got

[lil' mikey]

:lol: just don't pull up to hard you might fall off the back...:lol:

[YOMAMAR6]

woooohooooo just place the order over phone woooooohoooooo.

[rickster]

:2cents: With a smaller tooth count sprocket the individual pins/rollers also turn over a larger portion of their circumference; this will increase the wear rate somewhat as well. Sorry, brain faded or I would've thrown that out sooner. Edwin, you should be pretty happy with that combo.