Any advise???/

[tlrmike99]

OK, I was changing the oil on the TLR and found a small leak around the access plug in the center of the left side case. (Access for timing stuff I guess) and of course when I try to get it out, the allen hole strips out, so I try the ol' cut-a- slot-in-it-so-you-can-use-a-crewdriver-or-something-flat trick... but that ain't working either.... I think they last guy to do the valves welded it shut... The plug is aluminimum and so is the case cover.... thanks in advance!

[TOM-CAT]

Heat and impact are your two best friends in this case. Just brain storming here at work...You didn't really mean what you said about welding it on, right?...Probably (hopefully) just some locktite...Here is what I would try.

You are going to want to heat up the bolt. This will cause the hole to get larger, and for any locktite to break down. The most direct way would be to torch the whole thing, but I am guessing that your cover is painted. So lets not burn away any paint.
Idea two: Put an old allen wrench into the hole so it is just sitting inside the bolt. Now take a torch to the allen wrench, this will indirectly heat up the bolt. Now if you have an impact wrench, or impact driver, with a slotted head that you can drive into the slit that you made earlier, you can try to drive it out. Be carefull as always, the aluminimum is soft so it shouldn't take to much.

:2cents:

Best of luck Mike. :thumbup:

[Matt]

If you went that route you'd want to heat up around the bolt. Heating up the bolt will make the bolt larger and cause it to be stuck in there even more. Heating up around the whole itself will cause the hole to get bigger, and idealy the bolt will stay the same, smaller size. lol

[TOM-CAT]

If you went that route you'd want to heat up around the bolt...That would be the ideal situation :thumbup:, but unless you can heat it up without burning the paint or melting parts of the bike :yell:, the next best thing is to heat up the bolt so that the heat will be transfered to the surounding metal. The second (and if locktite is present, more important) reason for the heating process, is to break down any locktite that might be binding the threads.

But going one step further, you could heat up both the bolt and surounding area with the method described above. Then right before you impact on the bolt, press an ice cube against the bolt to cause the bolt to constrict back down, while leaving the area around the bolt still expanded. :2cents: :cool:

[TAT2D]

The same thing happened to me with a brake rotor bolt. Ben showed me a trick that worked pretty well. Not sure if it will work after cutting a slot in the head, but maybe.
Get a torx bit (the kind that attatches to a ratchet) that is a hair bigger than the existing hole, and tap it in with a hammer. Attatch the ratchet, and back it out.
Might work even better with some heat.
Good luck, manhttp://eugenesportbike.com/forum/images/smilies/newsmilies/thumbup.gif

[roadrunner]

lots of luck!!!

[rickster]

Matt's right on; the surrounding metal needs to expand to help release the plug. Very slow, careful application of a propane torch should do the trick. The torx bit is a good idea as well. Option #3 is to just live with it until it's time to adjust the valves. I had the same leak on my TL even after replacing the o-ring. I finally cleaned it all up and put some non-hardening Permatex around it. I think there's something off in the machining of the plug and/or cover.

[tlrmike99]

Thanks, I was hoping that was the gasquet you gave me.. but NOOOOOOOOOO can't have any luck like that...LOL... I'll get it fixed up... and I still got the GSX-R to ride in the mean time....

[Rex Raider]

got to strech the gs's legs from time to time :yes:
good luck with the bolt, i know they be a pain every once'sd-in-a-while.
gust don't spend more time on it then it would take to drill & tap it :thumbup: