Xusia
09-05-2010, 11:15 PM
I've lots of questions and interest on my setup, so I thought I'd do a post/write-up on it. I've tried and looked at a lot of different audio systems on my bike, but they all fell short in several areas, so I've pieced together my own from individual parts. In this post I'm detailing what I've put together, but as you will see it can be easily adapted to fit different situations by using different components.
What it is: It's a system for listening to audio from one or more sources without running wires between you and the bike. Although, as you will see, you could run a wire if you wanted to make it even cheaper (which I used for years before going wireless).
What it isn't: It isn't bike-to-bike communication. It isn't a wireless communication system. You can't make phone calls with it (at least as I have it set up).
OK, so I've diagrammed the components (see attached pics), and listed them below as well:
Radar Detector: In order for this to work, you need one with audio out. To the best of my knowledge, this limits choices fairly significantly. On the plus side, the ones with audio jacks are usually among the better detectors. A great site to use as a guide is Radar Busters (http://www.radarbusters.com/motorcycle-radar-detectors/6524+6529.cfm). I currently use a Passport 9500ix, and have used an 8500 in the past. While they are good detectors, I think you'd be better served on the bike by ones a bit better built to withstand the vibration and shock associated with motorcycling like the TPX.
MP3 Player: Pick your poison. I bought a $15 model online so I can leave it on the bike and not worry about it being stolen. It came with an armband I adapted and mounted to the steering damper.
Bluetooth Transmitter: I bought the Bluetooth Stereo A2DP Dongle from Cubeternet (http://www.cubeternet.com/servlet/Detail?no=16). There may be other's out there as well. The key feature of this one that makes it work is that it automatically tries several common passcodes to connect to Bluetooth receivers. This is important because the receivers are generally designed to connect to computers, phones, etc. - something with a screen and an input method, so they hard code the passcode (usually something like 0000, 1234, etc.). The dongle above has no such interface, therefore you can't manually enter the receiver's passcode.
Bluetooth Receiver: I bought the Jabra BT3030 (http://www.jabra.com/Sites/Jabra/NA-US/Headsets/Pages/Jabrabt3030.aspx), but I just learned it has been discontinued. This means prices are cheap (~$30). If you can't find it, I'm fairly certain the Jabra Clipper (http://www.jabra.com/_layouts/jabralogin.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Sites/Jabra/na-us/Headsets/Pages/JabraCLIPPER.aspx) would also work (the link may not work - Jabra's site was having problems when I snagged it).
Headphones: You can pretty much use anything you can wear under a helmet. My personal favorites are the Radius Atomic Bass (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=radius+atomic+bass&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=4521630366644066147&ei=d4OETKySA4G-sAOyj_z2Bw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CCQQ8wIwAg#) in-ear (canal) phones. I like them because they are cheap, they sound very good for the price, they double as hearing protection, and they are very comfortable (everyone's ear is different, so your own experience may vary).
Various Cables: As you can see from the diagram, there are several cables that make this whole thing work. The hardest to find is the mono-to-stereo adapter. I found the one I have a Radio Shack. They call it an "Aircraft Adapter (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103860)!" They key point on this adapter is to tape up the unused end, because if it touches any metal on the motorcycle (which there is a lot of up front), it will cause all kinds of problems and annoying sounds.
Another one that is slightly less hard to find is the stereo "Y" adapter. Mostly because this one is 2 males / 1 female. Most are the other way around (2 females / 1 male). Again, I got mine at Radio Shack, but plenty of other places will carry this one as well (though you may have to look around a bit).
Last is the input cable. Very simple and available almost anywhere, it's just a straight stereo cable (with 2 male ends) used to connect MP3 players to car stereos (and what not) everywhere. I recommend a short length, like 12" or less. IF you wanted to forget going wireless, all you would have to do is replace this cable with a 3.5mm coiled headphone extension cable (coiled so it takes up slack - very important!). That way you could connect the earphones directly to it either out through a sleeve (I used my right sleeve because my right hand rarely leaves the throttle) or the bottom of your jacket.
Anyway, I think that's it. Let me know if anyone has questions.
What it is: It's a system for listening to audio from one or more sources without running wires between you and the bike. Although, as you will see, you could run a wire if you wanted to make it even cheaper (which I used for years before going wireless).
What it isn't: It isn't bike-to-bike communication. It isn't a wireless communication system. You can't make phone calls with it (at least as I have it set up).
OK, so I've diagrammed the components (see attached pics), and listed them below as well:
Radar Detector: In order for this to work, you need one with audio out. To the best of my knowledge, this limits choices fairly significantly. On the plus side, the ones with audio jacks are usually among the better detectors. A great site to use as a guide is Radar Busters (http://www.radarbusters.com/motorcycle-radar-detectors/6524+6529.cfm). I currently use a Passport 9500ix, and have used an 8500 in the past. While they are good detectors, I think you'd be better served on the bike by ones a bit better built to withstand the vibration and shock associated with motorcycling like the TPX.
MP3 Player: Pick your poison. I bought a $15 model online so I can leave it on the bike and not worry about it being stolen. It came with an armband I adapted and mounted to the steering damper.
Bluetooth Transmitter: I bought the Bluetooth Stereo A2DP Dongle from Cubeternet (http://www.cubeternet.com/servlet/Detail?no=16). There may be other's out there as well. The key feature of this one that makes it work is that it automatically tries several common passcodes to connect to Bluetooth receivers. This is important because the receivers are generally designed to connect to computers, phones, etc. - something with a screen and an input method, so they hard code the passcode (usually something like 0000, 1234, etc.). The dongle above has no such interface, therefore you can't manually enter the receiver's passcode.
Bluetooth Receiver: I bought the Jabra BT3030 (http://www.jabra.com/Sites/Jabra/NA-US/Headsets/Pages/Jabrabt3030.aspx), but I just learned it has been discontinued. This means prices are cheap (~$30). If you can't find it, I'm fairly certain the Jabra Clipper (http://www.jabra.com/_layouts/jabralogin.aspx?ReturnUrl=/Sites/Jabra/na-us/Headsets/Pages/JabraCLIPPER.aspx) would also work (the link may not work - Jabra's site was having problems when I snagged it).
Headphones: You can pretty much use anything you can wear under a helmet. My personal favorites are the Radius Atomic Bass (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=radius+atomic+bass&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=4521630366644066147&ei=d4OETKySA4G-sAOyj_z2Bw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CCQQ8wIwAg#) in-ear (canal) phones. I like them because they are cheap, they sound very good for the price, they double as hearing protection, and they are very comfortable (everyone's ear is different, so your own experience may vary).
Various Cables: As you can see from the diagram, there are several cables that make this whole thing work. The hardest to find is the mono-to-stereo adapter. I found the one I have a Radio Shack. They call it an "Aircraft Adapter (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103860)!" They key point on this adapter is to tape up the unused end, because if it touches any metal on the motorcycle (which there is a lot of up front), it will cause all kinds of problems and annoying sounds.
Another one that is slightly less hard to find is the stereo "Y" adapter. Mostly because this one is 2 males / 1 female. Most are the other way around (2 females / 1 male). Again, I got mine at Radio Shack, but plenty of other places will carry this one as well (though you may have to look around a bit).
Last is the input cable. Very simple and available almost anywhere, it's just a straight stereo cable (with 2 male ends) used to connect MP3 players to car stereos (and what not) everywhere. I recommend a short length, like 12" or less. IF you wanted to forget going wireless, all you would have to do is replace this cable with a 3.5mm coiled headphone extension cable (coiled so it takes up slack - very important!). That way you could connect the earphones directly to it either out through a sleeve (I used my right sleeve because my right hand rarely leaves the throttle) or the bottom of your jacket.
Anyway, I think that's it. Let me know if anyone has questions.