kneedragger26
10-07-2006, 10:21 PM
I must have been very spoiled overseas. I rode to events and the race track was just around the corner (Hockenheimring, and Nurburgring). Drove a Corvette to events that I didnt want to take the bike to such as Assen, Donington Park,(they drive on the wrong side of the road!) and south such as Imola and Valencia. Needless to say, I didnt need to load a truck with my bike, so its a new experience.
I thought I might help some people by sharing a little of what I learned.
I dont expect anyone to ask questions. Nobody ever does. (Its a pride thing with most people) So if you dont do it right and screw yourself, or your pretty sportbike up by doing it and not asking questions first, then dont blame me.
So here goes. This is an exerpt from Sport Rider. I highlighted the parts I am saying.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0312_tie/
There will always be an occasion that will require you to load your bike onto a trailer or truck bed for transport. Like any other task that requires tying down a heavy load to prevent shifting while in transit, there is a right way and a wrong way to securely fasten a motorcycle. Although truck beds and trailers can require different methods and products, there are some basics that apply to both and can help you avoid accidentally damaging your bike.
Tie-down straps are a vital tool for securing a bike for transport-their ease of use and ability to tighten and handle a heavy strain make them indispensable for this task. Tie-downs fall into two basic categories based on buckle type. The standard "cam buckle" uses the friction created by the strap as it passes around a knurled, spring-loaded, cam-shaped buckle to hold the strap in place. The main advantage of the cam-type tie-down is it only requires a single action that is quickly accomplished to securely fasten your bike, and you can usually tighten the strap while seated on the bike. The disadvantage is that you cannot create as much tension as with a ratchet-type tie-down. A ratchet buckle uses a small ratcheting gear and lever to progressively tighten the strap, and its leverage advantage over the strap's tension allows you to fasten the bike more securely. It is possible to use too much tension with a ratchet-type tie-down, however, so care must be taken, and it requires a bit more effort to complete the tightening job than a cam-type tie-down.
Each strap manufacturer has different recommendations on what type of product fits each application. For bikes ranging from 400 to 750 pounds, M&R Products suggests using two pairs of straps with a combined 1200-pound strength rating; one pair securing the front of the bike with another in the rear. Ancra similarly suggests using two pairs of its cam buckle tie-downs for bikes between 500 and 1000 pounds, while Wright's Custom Products suggests that any bike more than 400 pounds requires ratchet tie-downs in the front with cam buckle straps in the rear.
Regardless, all agree on one critical factor: The front wheel must be immobilized in some way. If not secured in place, the front wheel can twist during transit, causing the tension to vary on either side, resulting in an unstable load. In order to aleviate this problem the rear ties downs will pull the bike backwards therefore eliminate the "wheel chock". Use the ribs in the truck bed as a tire positioner and guide. But if you must....... The most common product for this job is a wheel chock. A chock prevents both twisting and forward movement of the front wheel, while also providing a leverage point for tie-downs. Make sure the chock is wide enough to fit over your front tire. It should also be test-fitted to check for enough clearance to the brake rotors; otherwise, brake damage could result.
Tie-down manufacturers stress that the rear of the bike must also be strapped down because in the event of sudden braking or in an accident, an unsecured bike can pivot over the front end and cause severe injury or damage.
When tying down the front end of the bike, a common question is, "How far do I compress the forks to ensure the bike is stable?" Scott Mackie of Mackie Enterprises Inc. advises that a bike should be pulled down until the forks are compressed to approximately half of their available travel. This will ensure that the bike is stable without putting unnecessary stress on the springs or fork seals. If you have air-assisted forks, it's a good idea to release the air pressure.
What I have done is use 2 6' ratchet straps around the triple clamp, on each side going to the upper hole in the pickup bed on both sides. The throttle side clamps down first then the left side to stablize and pull the forks about halway down. First this does not rub on the fairing of the motorcycle and will not "pull" loose. Then the back. I do not have passenger footpegs so, I went directly to the frame underneath the seat on both sides. When everything is sitting correctly, (the front tire should be about 4 inches from the bed wall), then try to move the rear tire forward and back. There should be little or NO movement.
Just remember its not a load of bricks you are tying down. The trick is to keep the suspension from moving enough to loosen the clamps.
It is also important to remember that when tying down your bike, the higher the attachment point the better, because it offers more leverage.(There it is again!) Each bike is different, so look around and find the location that offers a solid tie-down point. Avoid fairing brackets or other fragile/flexible components, and instead look for locations that offer a rigid mount like a triple clamp in the front or a subframe in the rear. The use of soft tie extensions can make this easier, and prevent you from scratching bodywork or parts with the S-hooks found on most tie-down straps.
The angle of attachment is also important, and several of the straps come with detailed instructions (some even include a sketch) on the proper method. A good basic starting point is to ensure that the tie-downs are at a minimum of 10 degrees (but preferably 50-60 degrees) from vertical, with the front straps pulling the bike forward and the rear straps backward. This will ensure that tension exists to keep the bike from moving forward or backward during transportation.
Also, check and ensure that the straps do not touch any bodywork or painted surface on the bike. The vibration (and ensuing rubbing of the strap on the paint) during a long trip will ruin the surface over time. If you have an application that does not allow any other option, simply place a soft towel between the strap and the painted area.
Hot surfaces are also not a good environment for tie-down straps. Most straps are made from polyester or nylon, and therefore have a melting temperature low enough to allow the strap to be damaged or destroyed by a hot muffler. It's also a good idea to secure any loose strap ends after you tighten them down. Otherwise, the loose end will flap in the wind on an open trailer or truck bed, and could damage your paint over the course of a long trip. Some people prefer to tie the excess in a knot, while others prefer a strip of duct-tape to fasten it to the strap. Either way is fine-just make sure to secure it.
CREEP TEST
The most common problem we hear with regard to tie-down straps during normal use is "creeping" (slippage of the strap through the buckle), requiring constant checking and tightening during an extended trip. In order to measure each tie-down's creep, we developed a test utilizing steel plates hijacked from the high-tech Sport Rider weight-lifting center used to maintain our incredible level of physical fitness (the center is located right next to the official, well-stocked SR beer cooler). The total weight of the plates was 130 pounds; using the strap, we lifted approximately 100 pounds of the plates' weight. The remaining 30 pounds was supported by a scale below the fixture. As the strap slipped over time, the weight on the scale increased. We measured the results after one hour and then thoroughly wet the strap to simulate rain, making another measurement at the end of a second hour. Most of these straps are rated at a working load of 400 pounds or more, so a tension of 100 pounds is only 25 percent (or less) of loading; however, it is representative of the force applied during normal use. Applying a tension of higher than 300 pounds on a single tie-down strap shouldn't be necessary on a sportbike-any higher could be harmful on the hard parts used for tie-down points. Most importantly, it's a good idea to check the bike after the first 20-30 miles to ensure that nothing slipped or came loose.
Now comes the fun part! Getting it up into the bed.
What I learned very quickly is that making a driveway work to your advantage is possible. Back the truck up so it sits in the rain gutter part of the road or a place where the ground is taller behind the truck. It doesnt need to be much, but every angle advantage is better.
Put the first ramp in the middle and if you dont want to drill holes in the tailgate, just use one of the tiedown straps to hold it wrapped around the tailgate completely and though one rung in the ramp. Then position the other ramp on the left side. This is the one you are going to be walking up.
What I suggest is to have another person behind the bike and able to stabilize if something goes wrong, (like you accidently trip). Start the bike and with your right foot and clutch in, pop it in gear and gently walk it up feathering the clutch and throttle to overcome the slight grade you have made by backing up to higher ground. Its actually pretty easy and with some skill the other person will find out that they were just there for "moral support". Once the bike is in the truck and 3 feet off the ground from where you started, I think the only thing left to do is pat yourself on the back and say, "Damn, that was easy!"
The only thing left is tying down and throwing the ramps in on each side of the bike. Pay careful attention not to just RELEASE the straps after they are set up. Un-ratchet each side slowly as to not move the bike around and have it fall. I did not even put up the kickstand. It just sits there extended and waiting for the straps to release.
What a person needs is:
Two 6' ratchet straps
Two 12' or longer ratchet straps (both good quality) around 15 to 20 dollars for a set of 2.
4 short bungee cords to keep the ramps from wiggling around in the bed.
Trailer? What trailer?:yes:
I thought I might help some people by sharing a little of what I learned.
I dont expect anyone to ask questions. Nobody ever does. (Its a pride thing with most people) So if you dont do it right and screw yourself, or your pretty sportbike up by doing it and not asking questions first, then dont blame me.
So here goes. This is an exerpt from Sport Rider. I highlighted the parts I am saying.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0312_tie/
There will always be an occasion that will require you to load your bike onto a trailer or truck bed for transport. Like any other task that requires tying down a heavy load to prevent shifting while in transit, there is a right way and a wrong way to securely fasten a motorcycle. Although truck beds and trailers can require different methods and products, there are some basics that apply to both and can help you avoid accidentally damaging your bike.
Tie-down straps are a vital tool for securing a bike for transport-their ease of use and ability to tighten and handle a heavy strain make them indispensable for this task. Tie-downs fall into two basic categories based on buckle type. The standard "cam buckle" uses the friction created by the strap as it passes around a knurled, spring-loaded, cam-shaped buckle to hold the strap in place. The main advantage of the cam-type tie-down is it only requires a single action that is quickly accomplished to securely fasten your bike, and you can usually tighten the strap while seated on the bike. The disadvantage is that you cannot create as much tension as with a ratchet-type tie-down. A ratchet buckle uses a small ratcheting gear and lever to progressively tighten the strap, and its leverage advantage over the strap's tension allows you to fasten the bike more securely. It is possible to use too much tension with a ratchet-type tie-down, however, so care must be taken, and it requires a bit more effort to complete the tightening job than a cam-type tie-down.
Each strap manufacturer has different recommendations on what type of product fits each application. For bikes ranging from 400 to 750 pounds, M&R Products suggests using two pairs of straps with a combined 1200-pound strength rating; one pair securing the front of the bike with another in the rear. Ancra similarly suggests using two pairs of its cam buckle tie-downs for bikes between 500 and 1000 pounds, while Wright's Custom Products suggests that any bike more than 400 pounds requires ratchet tie-downs in the front with cam buckle straps in the rear.
Regardless, all agree on one critical factor: The front wheel must be immobilized in some way. If not secured in place, the front wheel can twist during transit, causing the tension to vary on either side, resulting in an unstable load. In order to aleviate this problem the rear ties downs will pull the bike backwards therefore eliminate the "wheel chock". Use the ribs in the truck bed as a tire positioner and guide. But if you must....... The most common product for this job is a wheel chock. A chock prevents both twisting and forward movement of the front wheel, while also providing a leverage point for tie-downs. Make sure the chock is wide enough to fit over your front tire. It should also be test-fitted to check for enough clearance to the brake rotors; otherwise, brake damage could result.
Tie-down manufacturers stress that the rear of the bike must also be strapped down because in the event of sudden braking or in an accident, an unsecured bike can pivot over the front end and cause severe injury or damage.
When tying down the front end of the bike, a common question is, "How far do I compress the forks to ensure the bike is stable?" Scott Mackie of Mackie Enterprises Inc. advises that a bike should be pulled down until the forks are compressed to approximately half of their available travel. This will ensure that the bike is stable without putting unnecessary stress on the springs or fork seals. If you have air-assisted forks, it's a good idea to release the air pressure.
What I have done is use 2 6' ratchet straps around the triple clamp, on each side going to the upper hole in the pickup bed on both sides. The throttle side clamps down first then the left side to stablize and pull the forks about halway down. First this does not rub on the fairing of the motorcycle and will not "pull" loose. Then the back. I do not have passenger footpegs so, I went directly to the frame underneath the seat on both sides. When everything is sitting correctly, (the front tire should be about 4 inches from the bed wall), then try to move the rear tire forward and back. There should be little or NO movement.
Just remember its not a load of bricks you are tying down. The trick is to keep the suspension from moving enough to loosen the clamps.
It is also important to remember that when tying down your bike, the higher the attachment point the better, because it offers more leverage.(There it is again!) Each bike is different, so look around and find the location that offers a solid tie-down point. Avoid fairing brackets or other fragile/flexible components, and instead look for locations that offer a rigid mount like a triple clamp in the front or a subframe in the rear. The use of soft tie extensions can make this easier, and prevent you from scratching bodywork or parts with the S-hooks found on most tie-down straps.
The angle of attachment is also important, and several of the straps come with detailed instructions (some even include a sketch) on the proper method. A good basic starting point is to ensure that the tie-downs are at a minimum of 10 degrees (but preferably 50-60 degrees) from vertical, with the front straps pulling the bike forward and the rear straps backward. This will ensure that tension exists to keep the bike from moving forward or backward during transportation.
Also, check and ensure that the straps do not touch any bodywork or painted surface on the bike. The vibration (and ensuing rubbing of the strap on the paint) during a long trip will ruin the surface over time. If you have an application that does not allow any other option, simply place a soft towel between the strap and the painted area.
Hot surfaces are also not a good environment for tie-down straps. Most straps are made from polyester or nylon, and therefore have a melting temperature low enough to allow the strap to be damaged or destroyed by a hot muffler. It's also a good idea to secure any loose strap ends after you tighten them down. Otherwise, the loose end will flap in the wind on an open trailer or truck bed, and could damage your paint over the course of a long trip. Some people prefer to tie the excess in a knot, while others prefer a strip of duct-tape to fasten it to the strap. Either way is fine-just make sure to secure it.
CREEP TEST
The most common problem we hear with regard to tie-down straps during normal use is "creeping" (slippage of the strap through the buckle), requiring constant checking and tightening during an extended trip. In order to measure each tie-down's creep, we developed a test utilizing steel plates hijacked from the high-tech Sport Rider weight-lifting center used to maintain our incredible level of physical fitness (the center is located right next to the official, well-stocked SR beer cooler). The total weight of the plates was 130 pounds; using the strap, we lifted approximately 100 pounds of the plates' weight. The remaining 30 pounds was supported by a scale below the fixture. As the strap slipped over time, the weight on the scale increased. We measured the results after one hour and then thoroughly wet the strap to simulate rain, making another measurement at the end of a second hour. Most of these straps are rated at a working load of 400 pounds or more, so a tension of 100 pounds is only 25 percent (or less) of loading; however, it is representative of the force applied during normal use. Applying a tension of higher than 300 pounds on a single tie-down strap shouldn't be necessary on a sportbike-any higher could be harmful on the hard parts used for tie-down points. Most importantly, it's a good idea to check the bike after the first 20-30 miles to ensure that nothing slipped or came loose.
Now comes the fun part! Getting it up into the bed.
What I learned very quickly is that making a driveway work to your advantage is possible. Back the truck up so it sits in the rain gutter part of the road or a place where the ground is taller behind the truck. It doesnt need to be much, but every angle advantage is better.
Put the first ramp in the middle and if you dont want to drill holes in the tailgate, just use one of the tiedown straps to hold it wrapped around the tailgate completely and though one rung in the ramp. Then position the other ramp on the left side. This is the one you are going to be walking up.
What I suggest is to have another person behind the bike and able to stabilize if something goes wrong, (like you accidently trip). Start the bike and with your right foot and clutch in, pop it in gear and gently walk it up feathering the clutch and throttle to overcome the slight grade you have made by backing up to higher ground. Its actually pretty easy and with some skill the other person will find out that they were just there for "moral support". Once the bike is in the truck and 3 feet off the ground from where you started, I think the only thing left to do is pat yourself on the back and say, "Damn, that was easy!"
The only thing left is tying down and throwing the ramps in on each side of the bike. Pay careful attention not to just RELEASE the straps after they are set up. Un-ratchet each side slowly as to not move the bike around and have it fall. I did not even put up the kickstand. It just sits there extended and waiting for the straps to release.
What a person needs is:
Two 6' ratchet straps
Two 12' or longer ratchet straps (both good quality) around 15 to 20 dollars for a set of 2.
4 short bungee cords to keep the ramps from wiggling around in the bed.
Trailer? What trailer?:yes: